What an Apparel Factory Actually Handles

Sewing is not an immediate process when sending a clothing idea to a factory. Usually an apparel factory have several steps, (including sourcing the fabric, developing pattern, sampling, cutting, sewing, finishing, branding, quality controls….) before the garment is putted on the production line.

Explaining these stages makes it easier for clothing brands to take their message to the suppliers and minimize the risks of things going wrong that are very likely to happen once preproduction starts.

Sewing Is Only One Part of the Job

A completed garment begins with a lot more than fabric and a sewing machine.

The brand might come with a sketch, a tech pack, a sample, a size chart or simply an idea for a product. The factory has to be able to develop this idea into something that the workers can cut and make efficiently.

Information such as fabric composition/fabric weight/color/measurements/construction/trims/labels/artwork/packaging/finishing requirements can be added. If you leave information out you leave room for uncertainty – a comprehensive production brief gives the factory a much stronger baseline from which to work

In the case of custom apparel, [the early stage] can affect all of the other stages to a significant extent.

Fabric Decisions Come Before the Cutting Table

Selecting fabric is not only about finding a material that appears appropriate.

So perhaps the brand wants a heavyweight cotton T-shirt, or a soft fleece hoodie, a structured denim jacket or a lighter woven piece. Each product requires a certain content to achieve the desired fit/look/functionality.

What the fabric weighs can affect the way a garment hangs and feels. The fiber content can influence the comfort, durability, stretch and ease of care. Shrinkage can alter measurements after washing.

The factory might source fabrics according to the end-product needs, see and test what is on offer, make sure the colors and other materials are compatible. Trims are important too. Zips, poppers, draw cords, elastics, tags, pockets and any other item needs to fit the garment and not cause trouble in the end.

This makes fabric sourcing into part of the product development, not just purchasing activity.

A Design Still Needs to Become a Garment

A sketch may portray the appearance of a garment but it cannot convey all measurements and details of construction.

Patterns develop the design concept into templates that are cut and assembled by the machinists. Pattern makers pay close attention to measurements, proportion, seams, shaping, darts, pockets, collars, sleeves, hems and other construction details.

This process can be extended to the grading, where a brand might approve, one base size but production requires several sizes. The pattern must scale proportionally to fit the size range rather than only add the same amount to every measurement.

Reference garments and specs are helpful. If the company offers a good tech pack or sample, the factory has a better idea of what to produce. A loose brief in development means more fittings are likely to be needed before the product takes shape.

The Sample Changes the Production Conversation

The first sample provides the brand with a measure of tangible items to evaluate.

It may appear right on screen but not appear right when the customer is wearing it. The shoulder drop might be excessive, the sleeve length too much, the collar way too much or the body in the wrong shape.

Sampling allows the brand to double check those details before final production.

A good sample inspection should not be limited to appearance alone. The buyer can take measurements, feel the fabric and even check the fit, think about weight and heaviness, test the stitch, examine the seam construction, look at the pocket placement, check the cuffs, collars, trim, labels and overall proportion. Fabric behavior and shrinkage can be checked after a good wash

After getting the sample approved by the brand, this reference will be also very useful for the factory during the production. They will be able to compare the whole production with the approved specifications instead of their memory or a simple word about the product.

Bulk Production Tests Consistency

Mass production presents a new problem.

Handcrafting a single high quality sample takes skill. Producing hundreds or thousands of garments with the same fit, color, construction and finishing requires a controlled production.

Initially the factory prepares the materials and cutting requirements. Fabrics are cut following the pre-designed pattern1 and then passed to the sewing and assembly processes2.

However in addition to the above depending upon the product manufacturing entails printing, embroidery, washing, distressing, pressing, labeling, folding, storage, packing etc.

Each operation can have an effect on the finished garment. Slight measurement errors while cutting can change fit. Thread tension can influence the stitch. Faulty alignment can move a pocket or logo.

This is why production teams require precise specifications, which must be checked at each stage of the order.

Quality Control Starts Before the Final Check

The box is delivered to the warehouse where it is checked for quality. The garments are free from any sewing defects. Following care instructions.

A factory can self inspect fabric before cutting, check first sample during production, keep track of measurements and garment construction with order progressing, before packing the finished garment.

Various items demand various attention. A T-shirt might demand close dimension and collar information; a denim area might need more focus for washing, distressing, band hardware and shade uniformity. A coat can include further area like zippers, pleats, pocket, lining, cuffs, and construction information.

The goal, taught at the most basic level, is to identify issues at a stage where employees still have the ability to fix them.

If the team finds an error in a measurement they have the chance to correct this while in the production process. If the same error is found after the whole order has already been processed to packing then this is a much worse problem for both the factory and buyer.

Branding Becomes Part of Production

Custom apparel is often more than the product.

Brand may use woven labels, printed neck labels, hangtags, embroidery, screen printing, patches, special packaging, or other details. So, they require the correct artwork, placement, size and manufacturing directions.

For-instance, a logo might appear correct on a sample but could possibly have to be centered during bulk. Actually, a label that is two centimeters too high will make a neatly/handmade garment appear different to the end-consumer.

A corresponding process within the factory would be however necessary branding has to be synchronized with the production process of the garment, instead of embellishing it at the last minute.

While private label projects often have their complexities, these can of course be even greater. The factory may be required to liaise on custom labels and packaging, colours, trims and other details as part of one single order.

The Factory Also Has to Think Beyond One Order

A good first order does not necessarily lead to a good second order.

Suppose a label produce a hoodie well and come back 6 months later for a repeat order. The purchaser would assume the same measurements, fabric weight, color, construction, branding and overall look to the product.

Production records allow the factory to keep all these details. Confirmed sample, specifications, patterns, information about fabric and guidelines for branding, etc., will give the following order a clear reference.

This is important for expanding clothing companies. A particular style/measure could be initially ordered on a small test run, but become a constant in the line. Repeatability in production means that they can go straight to reorders without having to redesign.

What an Apparel Factory Really Brings to a Brand

An apparel factory is not only measured by the number of sewing machine it has.

An experienced production partner links all areas of the process. Fabrics must be suitable for the product. Patterns must be appropriate for the way it will fit and hang. Samples must identify any problems before full production. The production team must have complete information. Quality must be checked at each stage of the order. Branding must be correct.

JJiuvelWear, operated by Dongguan Jiuzuo Clothing Co., Ltd., helps custom apparel brands by providing fabric sourcing, pattern making, sample making, bulk production, QC, private label services.

Knowing this broader production process, as is possible for a clothing label, also makes it far easier to communicate with a factory. Rather than information being limited to what happens at the apparel factory itself (how everyone produces a garment), the buyer (or label) becomes able to understand how the factory fits into the whole process by molding an idea of a product into something that can be produced again.

That makes a difference when a brand moves beyond a single sample and begins rolling out products for purchase.